Italy travel tips

Following are regularly updated travel tips for Italy.

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June 28 2009 Italy travel tips

If you're fit and want a cheap budget holiday in Italy, consider the pilgrim's road to Rome, or Via Francigena, which for centuries has been the route taken by pilgrims across Europe seeking spiritual redemption at the church of St Peter in Rome. The Via Francigena covers about 950 kilometres starting from Bourg St Pierre near Monginevro in the Swiss Alps and on to Rome through historic northern towns such as Ivrea, Pavia, Fidenza, Aulla, San Miniato, San Quirico d'Orcia and Montefiascone. The route takes in dramatic and ever-changing landscapes of alpine meadows, Tuscan vineyards, ancient towns, ruins and tombs. It is best to pre-book accommodation along the route, although many travellers prefer to book on the way so they can linger for as long as they want at different locations to soak up the history or enjoy some rest from the long walk. Christian faith is the motivation for many who walk the Via Francigena but it's a great way to soak up the "real" Italy for anybody with a good pair of boots.

Note: An earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale devastated the Abruzzo region on April 6, 2009, killing almost 300 people and leaving about 100,000 homeless. The medieval city of L'Aquila was rocked, as were outlying villages such as Onna and Castelnuovo, and about 15,000 buildings were destroyed or damaged. The quake zone was declared a disaster area and tourists in Italy should be aware the region will probably be affected for several years.

As of August 2008 and to tackle street crime, the Italian Government has authorised army troops to begin patrolling from 6pm to 2am in the cities of Rome, Milan, Naples, Florence, Genoa, Bologna, Turin, Palermo, Bari and Venice. The 2500 troops will patrol alongside regular police and paramilitary for at least six months.

In July 2008, a law was passed making Venice the first Italian city where begging is illegal. Extra police have been assigned to crack down on beggars in tourist spots such as St Mark's Square, the Lido, the Rialto Bridge and Bridge of Sighs.

Legend has it that Rome was founded on April 21, 743BC, by Romulus and Remus - the twins sons of Mars, the god of war. A fun time to travel to the city is during its April birthday, when Romans dress up in ancient clothes and parade the streets. This annual event is known as The Christmas of Rome.

In 2008, authorities announced that up to 1,000 tourists a year will be allowed to visit the tiny, famous Tuscan island of Montecristo, 64 kilometres off the Italian coast and 35 kilometres south of Elba. Visits will be allowed from August 31 to July 15 2008 and thereafter from August 31 to the end of October each year. For almost 40 years, Montecristo has been preserved as an exclusive nature reserve. Would-be visitors must book years in advance and be prepared to attend environmental lectures the day before their visit.

Italy's northernmost province of Alto Adige borders Austria and has a magnificent landscape and climate. Crumbling castles dot Alto Adige, the farms and villages are picturesque and the locals are more welcoming than elsewhere in Italy. In 2008, some 500,000 people lived in the province and about 75% speak a German dialect. Apple trees and vineyards carpet the valleys and ridges running up to the snow-capped Dolomite Mountains, and the area attracts few international travellers.

Note: The waste dumps of Naples have overflowed at the end of 2007, resulting in more than 110,000 tonnes of rubbish rotting in many of the city's streets. The unsightly garbage has a foul smell and in January 2008 authorities declared they wish to clear up the mess and find a solution to the waste crisis within four months.

The Appenine Mountains boast spectacular countryside and a popular tourist target is Verona, considered one of Italy's most beautiful cities. Verona has been described as a small version of Rome and has an ancient amphitheatre, fine piazzas and imposing churches, as well as Casa di Giulietta where Juliet is said to have called to Romeo from a her balcony.

The central Abruzzo region about 250 kilometres east of Rome extends from the Adriatic, encompassing the rugged Apennine Mountains, and is never inundated with tourists. Abruzzo has vast tracts of untouched national parkland still populated by a small number of brown bears and wolves. Regional towns are often medieval settlements on rocky outcrops and the area is devoid of roadside signs and supermarkets. The mountain slopes are carpeted with olive groves and vineyards, and flocks of sheep fill the paddocks.

If you wish to walk through Italy's fertile countryside, it's worth noting that it's legal to be on private farmland without asking permission but it's a crime to take anything from the fields such as a grape or a fig.

Travel tip ... Italy now has a terrorism law requiring everybody who wants to use public internet facilities (e.g. cafes) must produce their passport for photocopying and agree to have their web movements tracked. In other words, make sure you have your passport with you if you go to an internet cafe. The same terrorism laws apply to the use of other public communication facilities such as telephone and fax.

A taxi fare from Rome's Fiumicino Airport into the central city usually costs more than US$50 and a train trip (costing about $US11) takes 32 minutes. Rome's crowded central Termini railway station is within walking distance of much of the city's accommodation.

In Italy's north-west is the Ligurian coast and its famous Cinque Terre walk between the five villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. The walk along clifftop stone paths provides an intimate look at this magnificent stretch of coastline. The walk will take a full day unless you are very fit and is most enjoyable in autumn or spring. Each of the five picturesque villages has its own character and the Cinque Terre has unique cuisine and wines. The villages can be reached by car or ferry but the cheapest and most convenient way to travel to the coast is via train from Santa Margherita, which takes less than an hour.

It's essential while in Rome to visit the enormous Vatican, but be prepared for crowds, queues and laborious security checks. The Vatican crowds are much smaller in winter.

Note that there are formalities required when inside the Vatican ... e.g. don't wear a hat, don't use a flash on your camera and try to be quiet. It's worth taking a magnification lens such as opera glasses so you can see the intimate beauty of the many artworks adorning the ceilings of the Vatican.

Note Visitors to Italian cities such as Venice and Florence will be taxed up to five euros each a day from 2007, the levy probably being an accommodation tariff, to help the local municipalities maintain tourist structures and services.

The City of Rome has introduced a new Roma Pass which can help tourists navigate the many ancient artefacts, churches and musuems. The pass costs 18 euros and includes three days on public transport, limited free entry without queues, a map of Rome, a city guide and a program of tourist services and events.

It's essential while in Rome to visit the enormous Vatican, but be prepared for crowds, queues and laborious security checks.

The lower six regions of Italy are officially known as the Mezzogiorno and this region has 14 sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Southern Italy is always less crowded than the north but has a reputedly higher crime rate.

Tourists should note that bird flu was first detected in the Puglia, Calabria and Sicily regions in February 2006, with no human infections.

The Tuscan city of Pisa is internationally famous for its leaning tower, which sank into the soft moor ground during its 11th Century construction - a fate shared by various other Pisa buildings such as the tower of the San Nicola Church. After admiring the Leaning Tower of Pisa, tourists should also visit surrounding buildings such as the Santa Maria Assunta cathedral and the Camposanto, which houses ancient frescoes recovered from bombing during World War II. Holiday-makers in Pisa should also reserve time to visit the Museo delle Opera del Duomo and the Museo delle Sinopie.

Beware of bag snatchers known to cruise the Naples back alleys on Vespa motorscooters. The roads of Naples are a maze and road rules are often treated with disdain.

For the best view of Naples' sprawling metropolis, travel to the hilltop suburb of Vomero - an elite neighbourhood separated from the never-ending hustle and bustle of the city below. Pizzas are an authentic and cheap food source for budget travel in Naples and the cheapest, cleanest and safest accommodation can be found in a Christian convent.

While travelling in Naples it's worth visiting the nearby stylish islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida less than 90 minutes away in the Gulf of Naples, particularly if you're fairly wealthy.

The National Archeological Museum in Naples is overflowing with antiquities and is considered one of the best museums in Europe.

Nearby Pompeii (25km to the south-east) allows intimate tourist access to the restored villages and homes buried by the volcano in 79 AD. Trains to Pompeii run direct from the Circumvesuviana railway station beside the central station in Naples.

Mt Vesuvius is an active, menacing volcano that last erupted in 1944 and it's well worth walking the crater rim to admire the slumbering, steaming lava pit below.

The glamour island of Capri off Italy's west coast in the Tyrrrhenian Sea is accessed from the mainland town of Sorrento. Budget travellers should make the crossing on the slower but cheaper and more scenic ferry instead of the Capri hydrofoil. The island is just six kilometres long. Cars are not allowed, only porter buggies, taxis and buses. Capri's most colourful square is Piazza Umberto, which is a great place to watch the many rich, famous and "beautiful" people who holiday on the island. A highlight of Capri is the famous Blue Grotto where boats take tourists on ten minute journeys through translucent caves. The island is very picturesque and dotted with ancient ruins. However, Capri is also a playground for the rich and famous with prices to match.

The south, or boot, of Italy is the most sparse and flat but its remote beaches are sandy and pleasant. The Aspromonte National Park in the province of Reggio Calabria on the tip of the southern toe of Italy has few travelers and no hotels.

This southern territory is wild and largely inaccessible but has numerous attractions such as Norman castle ruins, waterfalls and tiny mountain villages forgotten by time. Accommodation can be found in private homes. The southern Calabria region is hot and arid yet spectacular and is a neglected tourist area in which you can enjoy a remote Italian adventure where few other tourists have been.

The town of Amalfi was once a great naval power but was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1343, and boasts arguably the most beautiful cathedral in southern Italy. Hotel rates in the district are very expensive and the cheapest alternative is a room in a private home for as little as US$20 per night.

Naples has slum areas within which there have long been difficulties with garbage disposal. In May 2007, residents started burning their garbage in the streets, fouling the city's air with smoke and the smell of decomposing rubbish.

Rome, said by many to be the most beautiful city in the world, has far too many galleries, churches, ruins, castles, tombs, monuments and museums for even a native Roman to absorb in a lifetime, so tourists can only expect to see a fraction of what's on offer during an average holiday. Be aware that Rome suffers a constant traffic tangle that challenges all but the most foolhardy of tourists driving a rental car.

Regional cultures and loyalties remain strong in Italy and there are different income levels, cuisines and dialects in different areas.

The landscape is similarly diverse, most northern regions dominated by the Italian Alps or the Dolomites and the middle spine of Italy comprising the Apennines. The Dolomite mountain range has been dubbed the most beautiful in the world.

Take note that a dialect of German is the language spoken in various villages and towns in the far north of Italy.

Italy's capital of Rome (population 8 million) is a feast of historical monuments from the Roman Empire, the Sistine Chapel a highlight with Michelangelo's Genesis on the barrel-vaulted ceiling and The Last Judgement on the chapel's end wall. However, Rome suffers a constant traffic tangle that challenges all but the most foolhardy of tourists driving a rental car.

Travel tip ...just over 30 minutes from Rome is the ancient holiday retreat of Sabina, overlooked by most visitors and tour itineraries but nevertheless one of the most serene, lush and beautiful places in Italy. The distrist is dotted with vines, olive groves, ruins and medieval towns such as Caperia. Sabina is also ideally located to explore Rome and surrounding regions such as Umbria and Tuscany.

The stunning Divina Costiera (Divine Coast) harbours ancient and charming fishing towns such as Sorrento, Positano, Ravello and Amalfi. The region's white cliffs and azure waters make this one of Italy's most popular tourist destinations

Another highly recommended district for travellers is Valnerina, a 70km stretch of valleys forged by the River Nera in the district of Umbria, where hikers on mountainous paths can soak up magnificent views, huge waterfalls, limestone gorges, wildflowers and medieval hilltop fortresses.

The ancient Roman town of Como, about half an hour's drive north of Milan, has long been noted for its warm, comfortable climate. Como is world-renowned for its silk fabrics and has a magnificent cathedral that took 350 years to complete after work began in 1396. Lake Como, with its backdrop of snow-capped Alpine peaks, is a picturesque body of water with regular public ferries to its numerous shoreside villages. Don't expect cheap hotel rates around Lake Como.

If your holiday travel takes you to the east coast of Italy, a treasure trove of sights can be found in the town of Ancona, south of Venice. Without the major tourist crowds and queues of other major Italian cities, you can admire the 12th Century Cathedral of San Ciriaco or explore a Roman amphitheatre, a superb archaeologcal museum and Ancona churches which boast artwork by greats such as Titan.

If you're a woman seeking a romantic rendezvous in Italy, it might be worth noting a 2005 survey that found 80% of Italian men aged between 18 and 30 still live with their parents.

It's worth noting that trucks are not allowed on Italy's motorways on Sundays unless carrying perishables, so the traffic flows a little smoother.

Travel hazards in Venice

Venice can be muggy, particularly in the evenings, and mosquitoes often require netting to enjoy a comfortable night's sleep.

It's true that the size of Venice makes it an ideal city to explore on foot but note that it's a maze of alleys and canals, and it's easy to get lost.

This is a tourist town so expect everything to be aimed at your tourist dollars. It's worth noting that public toilets in Venice are scarce and usually require payment.

There are a few good restaurants in Venice but plenty of ordinary and poor ones that charge high prices, and many tourists who can find residential accommodation in the city choose to save money by cooking at home.

The annual Venice Carnival is held each January/February, usually attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors who share the canals and streets with musicians, acrobats, artists and people wearing ornate 18th Century masks. Much of the entertainment is focused on Piazza San Marco. Accommodation and food prices soar during the carnival, although prices are always higher in San Marco than elsewhere in Venice.

You can spend days walking and catching gondolas to admire the endless old palaces, courtyards and squares of Venice. Make sure you have a good map and understand where you are because it's easy to get lost in the maze of alleys that criss-cross Venice.

In its 17th Century heyday, more than 5000 gondolas glided through the waterways of Venice. About 400 remain and in 2007 the average price for a half hour ride is 73 Euro.

If you're brave enough to hire a boat during your holiday in Venice so you can skipper yourself through the gondolas and barges, beware! Italian driving is as crazy on the waterways as on the motorways. Don't be hesitant and always remember that "right of way" is more a concept than a reality in Italy.

The speed limit on the canals is 5kmh to 7kmh, but the limit is rarely respected.

Most of the 40 or so lagoon islands can be reached by water-bus (vaporetto) from Venice - #13 for Burano, Torcello and Sant'Erasmo; #41 or #42 for San Michele and Murano. To reach San Franesco del Deserto, take a taxi from Burano. Water taxis in Venice are comfortable and superbly maintained but have notoriously high fees. The vaporetto public water buses are much cheaper but can be uncomfortable and crowded.

It's worth noting that the Venice municipality began a zero tolerance policy in 2005 to restore public decorum and is fining tourists 50 euros for removing their shirts and other supposedly "unseemly behaviour" including wearing tiny shorts or dangling feet in the canals. In other words, if you travel to Venice you should behave and dress well if you want to avoid a fine.

In Venice, the average January temperature is 3.8C and the average July temperature is 23.6C. If you travel to Italy in summer, be aware that Venice can be sweltering hot.

The tourist high season in Venice if from March to November and it's advisable to avoid the city in July and August because of the heat and number of holiday-makers.

Travel in Venice during winter can be fantastic because there are few tourists, no queues, cheaper hotels and plenty of fine days. However, the evenings and nights can be cold.

If you want to save a few holiday dollars, it's wise to avoid the at-times exorbitant accommodation prices in Venice by lodging on the mainland in one of various towns (such as Belluno, Castelfranco, Padua and Vicenza) within the Veneto hinterland region. A bus ride into the city only takes 10 to 15 minutes.

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